1. Norwegian Construction
This prestigious handicraft technique is characterised by an exposed double seam that binds together the upper, lining and insole. The first seam connects the upper to the insole and the second one anchors the upper to the midsole that shall subsequently be glued to the sole.
This is an especially difficult process, that requires a lot of time and a lot of precision, and is therefore characteristic of only a few. The final result is a vintage-looking shoe, exceptionally long lasting and completely reliable.
2. The Manual Cut
The chosen hides/materials are placed on a plate on the workbench and the fibre board template is placed on top; the pattern maker uses a cutter around the edge of the template.
Marking: the position of the various pieces that make up the shoe is marked on the upper. The marks are made manually in order to preserve the hide.
Splitting: this process “equalises” the thickness of the hide.
Fleshing: this process thins out the entire edge of the piece that shall make up the upper, with a depth, angle and value of thinning that may vary from area to area.
Once all the pieces of the upper are ready, the next step is to assemble them, by hand sewing.
5. Hook Application
The process is carried out manually; the hook is fastened to the upper with both a rivet and a washer for enhanced tensile strength.
The upper (the upper part of the shoe) and the assembly insole (the structural part of the shoe) are assembled together by a thermoplastic anchoring. The bottom (sole) is then glued in place with environmental-friendly polyurethane adhesives.
Finishing includes hand-milling the sole and heel, the insertion of the accessories (laces, arch supports, etc.) and a series of cleaning, perfecting, retouching and brushing operations, that end with the boxing of the shoes.